Hesh...nice outrigger, anti-slip grips on that throne!
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| Author: | Blain [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:41 pm ] |
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What is the thinnest that you would recommend to make a bridge? I have a piece of Ebony that is about .30 thick and was wondering if y'all would recommend this thickness for a bridge. Also what is the thinnest that you would make the sides of the bridge? (The "wings" so to speak) |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:47 pm ] |
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Mine are .300" in the center and are domed (no wings). They essentially are less than 1/32" at the ends. |
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| Author: | old man [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:51 pm ] |
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My blanks start out at 3/8", but probably end up at around .3, also. My wings are about 1/16". Ron |
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| Author: | Blain [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:51 pm ] |
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Thanks Brock. So hopefully I can use this one then. Truth is I sanded a little thinner than I meant to. I do have a spare which is about .5" thick that I could use as well, but thought I would see if I could sacrifice it. Do you really mean 1/32" (.03125) That seems really thin. Thanks again! |
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| Author: | Blain [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:53 pm ] |
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Thanks Ron. Sounds like I'm good to go then. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:14 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=blain1976] Thanks Brock. So hopefully I can use this one then. Truth is I sanded a little thinner than I meant to. I do have a spare which is about .5" thick that I could use as well, but thought I would see if I could sacrifice it. Do you really mean 1/32" (.03125) That seems really thin. Thanks again![/QUOTE] Yeah, 1/32... but they are domed. So imagine an arc that terminates at the face of the soundboard. There are no wings. |
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| Author: | Blain [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:29 pm ] |
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Thanks Brock for clarifying that. I understand what you're talking about now. |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:56 am ] |
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Hesh...nice outrigger, anti-slip grips on that throne!
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| Author: | Frank Ford [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:41 am ] |
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For Martin work, I aim for a bridge height of 3/8", and a minimum of 5/16" (.313). Much thinner than that, and you can have some structural difficulties if you use a tall saddle or install an under-saddle pickup. |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 3:23 am ] |
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Frank...I'm interested in your opinion...would a 5* back-angled saddle help to resist the structural difficulties you describe? Theoretically, more saddle force would be directed downward and less laterally. Waddya think? |
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| Author: | pharmboycu [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 4:17 am ] |
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I think Santa Cruz is using a 10 degree back-angled saddle now if I'm not mistaken... |
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| Author: | microsmurf [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:28 am ] |
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what is this back angled saddle? You mean the saddle actually sit a little tilted towards the lower bout end? |
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| Author: | Dale R. Kirby [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:48 pm ] |
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Tell me if I'm wrong and why but I would think that 1/2 the break angle of the strings from the saddle to the bridge pin holes would be and ideal back angle for the saddle. Kirby |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Fri Mar 09, 2007 2:38 am ] |
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A back-angled saddle doesn't change the overall torque on the bridge, but it does direct more of the force on the saddle towards the bottom of the saddle slot. I realize that may sound self-contradictory, but it's not. Ask Todd Stock. He can explain it better than I can. More on topic, though... This may be stating the obvious, but the bridge height (thickness) and the neck angle are interdependent. If this bridge is going on a guitar whose neck angle is already set, then the appropriate bridge thickness is determined by the neck angle (assuming the neck angle is such that a reasonable bridge/saddle height is possible). When building a new guitar or resetting a neck, it's the other way around: proper bridge and saddle height determine neck angle, this being, of course, the more ideal way to go about it. Personally, I wouldn't compromise the sound of the guitar by using a bridge of less than ideal height just to save a piece of wood. |
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